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Bordeaux

Bordeaux is the granddaddy of the world's wine regions. Since Roman times the Bordelais have been making wine in the rich soils of southwestern France.

WHAT MAKES BORDEAUX SPECIAL

Bordeaux is the granddaddy of the world's wine regions. Since Roman times the Bordelais have been making wine in the rich soils of southwestern France, and most people consider the epitome of the world's great wines to be the five wines that are ranked as first growths under the 1855 Classification: Château Haut-Brion, Château Latour, Château Margaux, Château Lafite Rothschild, and Château Mouton Rothschild. Wine is part of everything in Bordeaux, and nowhere else will you find so many wineries so close together. That means you will never run out of places to visit, and there are some great areas to discover. There are no less than 57 appellations or wine regions. The Left Bank, where the top five all reside, is the most famous, but there is also the Right Bank where such wonderful wines as Pomerol and St.-Émilion are made. And there is also Entre-Deux-Mers, a region often neglected by visitors but which produces some fine white wines. One of the great drives in the world of wine is to go leisurely along the D2 road north of the city of Bordeaux as it passes beautiful old châteaux where the most famous wineries in the world are located cheek by jowl. No other place can match it.

A FEW OF MY FAVORITE BORDEAUX WINES

Bordeaux wines are almost all blends of several grapes
Cabernet Sauvignon
Merlot
Cabernet Franc
Petit Verdot
Sauvignon Blanc
Sémillon

WINERIES TO VISIT

Château Mouton Rothschild
Baron Philippe Rothschild was the father of modern wine tourism in Bordeaux, and he was opening his doors to visitors long before others. It is still one of the best wineries for catering to wine tourists. It has a very good wine museum. Be sure to make a reservation in advance at this and all the other wineries mentioned in Bordeaux.

Château Lynch-Bages
A whole village has grown up around the winery, and you can easily spend a full day there. In addition to the winery tour, there are also two restaurants, a starred hotel, and artisans at work.

Château Smith Haut Lafitte
If you want to pamper yourself, this is the place to go. As expected, there are good wines, both a white and a red. In addition, there are two excellent restaurants, a spa, lovely sculpture spread among the vines, and at the French Paradox bar you can sample a wonderful selection of Bordeaux by the glass.

Château de Pressac
Located on the other side of the river from the first three wineries mentioned, this one is in St.-Émilion, an ancient town built on a hilltop that is not to be missed. Park your car outside the city and then just walk around the town.

Château d'Arsac
This winery is in the Sauternes section of Bordeaux, where delightfully sweet wines are made. The most famous of these is Château d'Yquem, but my favorite is this more informal winery. Recently they have opened a small hotel that accommodates only a few visitors and takes you back in time.

Château Loudenne
Located far up the main road from the city of Bordeaux, but worth the trip. The château is close to the Gironde River, and there is an old saying in Bordeaux that the best wines come from vineyards that can see the water. It has guest facilities for just ten rooms, so book early.

WHERE TO STAY

Château Cordeillan-Bages
This is the hotel at the Château Lynch-Bages winery, and it has the added advantage of being on the outskirts of Pauillac, arguably the most famous village in the Bordeaux region. That makes it a good central place for visiting other top wineries. The food is outstanding and deserves a third star from Michelin.

Hotel Burdigala
This hotel brought a top-flight quality hotel back to the city of Bordeaux after many years when there wasn't one. It has everything you want from a great hotel and is located in the heart of town. If a downtown hotel right in the center of the action is what you want, this is your place.

Comfort Hotel Merignac
I often stay near the airport in Merignac on the outskirts of Bordeaux. It's convenient for the day you arrive and the night before you leave. You're also close to the ring road around the city, and that make it easy to get to the wine regions, which are mostly north of the city. This hotel is functional and nothing fancy, and it's a good price. Save some money on lodging and spend it on wine.

Hostellerie de Plaisance
If you are staying in St.-Émilion, this is a centrally located place. Easy walking to all the sites in the city and close to the main road out when you go to leave. They bathe you in luxury, but at a price.

Château Loudenne
Stay right at the winery. It's quiet and relaxing with the feel of country luxury in a bygone era. The food if excellent, but without the unduly elaborate sauces and other heavy touches that you find in some French hotels and restaurants.

WHERE TO EAT

Château Lynch-Bages
In the Lynch-Bages village you have two choices. You can go to the two-star Château Cordeillan-Bages for a fine dining experience or you can go to the Café Lavinal for an excellent lunch in a bistro setting. You can't go wrong with either place.

Château Smith Haut Lafitte
Here you rhave three choices. La Grand'Vigne offers both classical French grande cuisine and diet cuisine minceur. There is also the bistro-style La Table du Lavoir for lighter foods.

Le Chapon Fin
For a great meal in downtown Bordeaux, Chapon Fin is hard to beat. The restaurant is a local institution dating back to the early 19th century, and a cooking school is also among the offerings. It prides itself on being both classical and innovative.

Chai Pascal
Located right in the middle of the ancient town, Chai Pascal was packed with locals the day that I was there. One of those locals brought me, and it was a wonderful experience. Just be prepared for a crowd. Good food, but not a temple of cuisine.

La Winery
This is the opposite of classical French. It's contemporary, casual, and iconoclastic. Very modern in style. While you are there, be sure to take the test that gives your enological sign based on your taste profile.

NON-WINE THINGS TO DO

It's difficult to totally get away from wine in Bordeaux. My favorite thing is to walk along the river in the middle of town, especially in the early mornings or late afternoons. This used to be a rundown section of the city where all the warehouses were located. Now the ugly buildings have all been torn down, and the riverfront has been given over to walkers. Jets of water shoot into the air. There are often festivals taking place at the waterfront such as the annual one celebrating oysters. Another way to get away from the crowds is to rent a bicycle and pedal through Entre-Deux-Mers. You'll pass some interesting ruins of churches and monasteries. The area is generally flat, so it's easy pedaling. I knew I was in a bike-friendly place when I saw a topiary of a bicycle at a traffic circle.